Model Row

Model Sanctuary founder Erin O'Connor has weighed in on the underage models debate, supporting a group of MPs who are campaigning for model protection laws for girls under the age of 16. O'Connor's respite centre is temporarily closed.

"Back in 2007, the fashion industry had recently undergone a turbulent and reflective period which resulted in the recommendations of the Model Health Inquiry," said O'Connor. "Out of those recommendations, the decision to protect under 16-year-olds from appearing on the catwalk was one of the most impacting.
"It seemed to me that there was mounting pressure on both sides, not only for young models at a crucial stage in their mental and physical development, but also for some members of the wider community who look to fashion to influence their own body aesthetic," she added. "It is imperative that we continue to secure the welfare of our younger participants and we should always aim to do that in an empowered and creative way. It's for reasons such as this that I founded the model sanctuary. We aim to encourage a strong ethic of self-reliance, awareness and belief with the encouragement of our friendly and experienced team of professionals."

Updated Monday February 13, 9.56am: Legendary model agencies Premier Model Management and Storm Model Management have fought back against allegations that the fashion industry mistreats child models. A group of female MPs are calling to create new laws for the protection of child models, after a host of young models, last week, spoke out about how girls as young as 13 were forced to work long, arduous hours with little food and drink and asked to strike sexually provocative poses.

"Mostly, when we have a model who is under 16, they tend to start out modelling in the holidays or half term and go around with their parent," Premier co-founder Carole White told us this morning. "If this is not possible the agency will send an intern to show them around. We tend to assess their ability to cope on a daily basis. Some girls are confident and can work with a photographer and client easily, while others need teaching which in actual fact comes mostly from the photographer and stylist. Usually an under-16 is basically an apprentice to modelling, we as agents council them in what to expect. Many girls hate to have an agent or parent with them on shoots as it is an artistic and creative process, and quite personal between the model and the photographic team."

"Young models need very careful supervision, and it is rare for one of our under-16s to be working in the international market," Storm Model Management managing director Sarah Doukas told us. "In exceptional cases, if a younger model gets booked for a prestigious job abroad, then she is always chaperoned by one of our experienced bookers. It's important to remember that models are very individual, from different backgrounds and with different personalities, and discretion with the direction of their careers is fundamental to their development and success as people. Some of our New Faces are under 16, but they generally just shoot tests and gain confidence until they are 16 and more mature. We would never advocate sending any model - even those over 16 - to a job she was not experienced enough to deal with."
The MPs want models under 16 to be given the same rights as child actors and actresses and be chaperoned to shoots and catwalk shows. Led by Liberal Democrat MP Jo Swinson, who recently invited media professionals to watch US feminist documentary, Miss-Representation, at the House of Commons, the campaign also encourages standards to limit child models' working hours and mandatory food and water to be provided. Performing arts union Equity also wants to see protection offered for young British models when travelling abroad.

"In London we do not have any girls on the catwalk who are under 16," explained White. "We stopped all of that about three years ago and it works well here. Other countries say they have a 16-only policy but they do not police it properly. Here in the UK, the BFC is very strict and we have to provide passport proof of age. Consequently you do still see the odd girl of 13 -15 on the catwalk in NY, Milan, Paris. It would be better if it was a level playing field wouldn't it?"

"Show season is particularly stressful and we have a team managing the girls' schedules, interests and needs 24/7," added Doukas. "We were fully behind the Model Health Inquiry's recommendation to restrict LFW to girls of 16 and above, and we are pleased to say this has been maintained since 2007."
Over the past year, several labels have recruited young faces to front new campaigns and model in their catwalk shows, including Miu Miu who hired 14-year-old Hailee Steinfeld and Marc Jacobs - whose fragrance advert featuring 13-year-old Elle Fanning was banned. Diane von Furstenberg mistakenly used a 15-year-old, Hailee Clauson, in her autumn/winter 2011-12 show - an error she quickly apologised for. Vogue adheres to a strict policy, whereby the magazine never shoots or works with models under 16.
"Who would bear the cost of these mandatory chaperones?" questioned White. "If we feel the model needs someone with her we send a chaperone. Perhaps, the MP would like to come and meet an agent to put her mind at rest. I travel all the time to other cities and feel proud of how we take care of models compared to some places. To me, our models are the most precious, they are young girls in an exciting world and a motherly and professional eye should be over them at all the time. The model agents - the AMA members - are all the most professional and caring agents probably in the world towards their models. In the UK we have thoroughly responsible clients who really take care of the models and I would have no problem sending anyone to shoots on their own to a client like Vogue, for example, as these guys know what they are doing."







ELLA ALEXANDER 14 February 2012
http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2012/02/13/underage-model-row---mps-launch-protection-campaign