Junior reports from the 74th edition of childrenswear tradeshow Pitti Bimbo, held at Fortessa De Basso, Florence
1) Lurex, metallic prints, sequins and all manner of glitter and shine. There is a move towards lurex knitwear and with strong colours such as emerald green, red and pink used with the shiny thread, unusually black lurex is one of the key trends we have seen used for knitwear and in tailored fabrics for jackets and coats.
2) Complicated finishes, velvet with heat burnished patterns and devore acid etchings, tweeds with embroidery, wool pique and cloche bubbled silks, texture is very important. Also pleating is a favoured technique.
3) Knitwear is huge, lots of aran and cabled patterns for big long cardigan knits for girls and hooded bomber styles for boys, sometimes in tan, chocolate brown, forest greens, sometimes grey or brights and sometimes with snowflake and other mountain/ski traditional style patterning. Overlarge knitted beanies, berets and pull on style hats were teamed with chunky scarves.
4) Shapes remain volume led for dresses and skirts with bubble and tulip shapes popular or many layered tulle petticoat skirts. There is a feeling of the 60's with some simple shift shapes at top labels and capes are popular, there's lots of layering still around too with overlong knitwear dresses or tunics layered over shirts and petticoat skirts so only a few inches of skirt are visible. Trousers on the other hand are super skinny still for both boys and girls, rolled to a mid calf length sometimes to show off patterned socks or boot decoration and there are lots of patterned and decorated leggings.
5) The obsession with fur in Italy continues with vivid bright dyed pelts and fur used for banding on skirts al la Prada, for collars and cuffs, earmuffs and Russian style huge bearskin hats. There are boleros and mini capes and fur trims on knitwear, coats, dresses and bags, some is fake, some real. It is also used combined with knitting as if it was knitted in at the same time.
6) Collars have become complicated, detachable or not they are beaded, sequinned, embroidered, lace and printed vinyl.
7) Pattern is around in some ditsy florals and cabbage rose styles but mostly things are graphic, bold black and white prints, overlarge dogtooth, also lots of spots in all varieties, overlarge or tiny or animal pattern leopard style. Padded jackets for boys are in metallic tones or banded in three different colours.
8) Colours are either muted and silvery grey's, stone, soft pastels, black and white or strong teal, raspberry, cobalt blue, purple, orange and mustard. Flourescents are used for contrast touches. Black and the traditional Christmas red are also strong. Gold is used just as much if not more so than silver this year with taffeta's, silks and velvet in the tone.
9) Paul Smith launched a shoe range with styles that sum up the season, for the boys there are some fabulous loafers in bi or tri coloured patterns, for girls tap and ballet styles in silver, gold and coloured glitter prevail. Boot shapes are bikerish, black and studded or decorated in glitter or fur too. The Yeti boots of last season did not reappear but there are more classic snow boots with fur top trims around and loads of Ugg style sheepskin boots with studded decorations such as heart emblems or ribbon trims.
10) Themes run from preppie college days to rock n'roll, woodland inspiration to the imaginary little world of princesses or Parisian chic.
Posted: 23 January 2012
by Linda McLean
http://www.juniormagazine.co.uk/catwalk-and-designers/pitti-bimbo-74-autumn-winter-2012-13-the-trend-report/11716.html
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