Couture Latest

Karl Lagerfeld built an Air Chanel jumbo jet to host this morning's couture show - with its wider than average gangway for the models to walk down, its illuminated numbered seats and transparent roof to reveal faux clouds above. It was quite the incredible production, as only Karl can do - complete with Chanel trolley dollies before we boarded our flight with its destination spring/summer 2012.

READ THE SHOW REPORT HERE

Updated Tuesday January 24, 8.56am: Couture's latest recruit Giambattista Valli proved his worth yesterday to anyone who doubted his couture appellation in December, delivering a romantic collection, featuring beautiful chiffon ball gowns covered in vibrant floral prints, wearable, purple maxi skirts teamed with matching jackets, gothic black dresses, as well as embroidered white pencil skirts and cocoon-shaped coats with delicate ruffle detailing.

SEE THE COLLECTION HERE

Updated Monday January 23, 15.29pm: It was an ode to Mad Men at Christian Dior this afternoon - pencil skirts, side-parted bobs and very high court shoes. It wasn't the John Galliano fantasy we have seen in the past but it was pretty and, surprisingly for couture, very wearable. For the women that invest in couture, this is a collection they can invest in as well as wear.

READ THE DIOR REPORT

Updated Monday January 23, 12.15pm: Cameron Diaz and Diane Kruger turned up to watch Karlie Kloss, Lindsey Wixson and Vogue cover girl Arizona Muse model Versace's first couture offering since 2004 today - a collection that featured the label's signature silhouettes in all their corseted, super-sexy glory; floor-length gowns covered in beads and lace, acid bright mini dresses, as well as - what Vogueeditor Alexandra Shulman described as - "couture pants". Other models to take to the Versace catwalk included Versace favourites Kasia Struss, Karmen Pedaru, Sigrid Agren and Josephine Skriver.

SEE THE VERSACE SHOW HERE

Updated Monday January 23, 10.02am: As Couture Fashion Week gets started today with Versace, Christian Dior and Giambattista Valli, reports have emerged that the couture market saw a rise in sales last year and is expected to become even more popular in 2012 - thanks to increases in Asia, Eastern Europe and South America. Valentino boasted a bump of 80 per cent in couture sales, Giorgio Armani Privé received a 50 per cent sales boost and Givenchy's increased by 5 per cent.

"It appears that couture customers are better equipped to face economic uncertainty compared with others," said Giorgio Armani head of communication and licensing Fabio Mancone. "We are cautious but have faith in 2012 and I believe our business will continue to grow."
Although Dior has not revealed its 2011 couture figures, the label's chief executive, Sidney Toledano, described the period as "a really good year".
"People are looking for top quality," he told WWD. "That's the case for jewellery, it's true for watches, and it's true for bags. Couture is the backbone of the company, and people know this is based on a real atelier. For us, couture is always at the forefront."

Updated Monday January 23, 9.45am: Seats for the Chanel couture show, due to take place tomorrow, are thought to be even more restricted than usual this season - which New York Magazine is crediting to an even more extravagant show set. Click back for all the pictures, as soon as they arrive.
Updated Friday January 20, 8.52am: Monday sees the return of Couture Fashion Week for spring/summer 2012, hot on the heels of the men's shows (see all the action here), and with them comes another couture return: Atelier Versace. Donatella hasn't showcased her bespoke wares anywhere but the red carpet since January 2004 - but what better season to show the brand's most expensive dresses than the one which debuted its least expensive ever: for H&M?
After Versace's opener, the day sees a mix of the old and new of the couture world take to the catwalk. Two of the fashion house's newest additions; Alexis Mabille and Giambattista Valli, show on Monday; as does one of couture's institutions - Christian Dior - still with Bill Gaytten at the helm. Only his second collection since taking over as creative director, it could scarcely receive a more robust critical panning than his first, but his ready-to-wear line in October fared much better, so perhaps summer is his season.

Tuesday brings out the big guns: Chanel, Givenchy and Giorgio Armani Privé - as well as couture's "Modern Knight", Stéphane Rolland, who promises his show's bride will be a surprise worth waiting for.
Valentino and Jean Paul Gaultier promise to thrill us on Wednesday: with fun, frivolity and fabulous models on one hand, and with almost-edible frothy dresses and make-up we'll want to copy on the other. One thing is for sure: when dresses that cost more than a house are worn by the world's most beautiful women - the pictures are always worth a look.






LAUREN MILLIGAN 24 January 2012
http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2012/01/20/couture-fashion-week-spring/summer-2012